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HOW TO - fit a Scirocco R bodykit

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#1 ·
Scirocco R Bodykit fitting tutorial
This tutorial will walk you through the steps of fitting the complete Scirocco R bodykit. This includes:

• Front Bumper
• Side skirts
• Rear Bumper

I have listed all the parts that I have used in the process but note that there may be other parts that can also be used that I may have missed out. Where possible I have also listed part numbers but some may be missing.

I’ve broken this tutorial down into three separate sections for each part of the modification.

Front Bumper
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*** BEFORE YOU START ***
The front bumper can’t simply be swapped with the standard one without taking into consideration a few key points:
1. The standard trim between the headlights won’t fit, so you will need to upgrade this to the R version as well.
2. Your existing sidelights won’t fit in the place where the Scirocco R running lights go (They're a different shape).
3. If you simple do away with the standard light housings in favour of the Scirocco R LED running lights you will need to come up with another solution for your front indicators (possible solutions are listed at the end of the tutorial.
4. Got Fog Lights? - Once you remove them you will get a bulb out error in your dash. You will need VAGCOM to tell the car that Fog Lights aren't fitted in order to remove this error.


PARTS REQUIRED:
1K8 807 221 K (Bumper Cover for vehicles with headlight washer system)
1K8 955 109 C (headlight washer cover)
1K8 955 110 C (headlight washer cover)
1K8 853 677 A (bottom centre vent grill)
1K8 854 661 (left bottom vent grill)
1K8 854 662 (right bottom vent grill)
1K8 807 241B GRU (Tow hook cover)

All of the above can be built up prior to fitting to the car. Note you may need to cut the washer covers and glue them in place if you don’t have washers.

1K8 853 761 C (decorative frame â€" bit between headlights)
1K8 853 653 B (radiator grill â€" above part clips on to this)
These clip together and are fitted between the headlights.

1K8 805 903 C (spoiler)
1K8 805 733 (retainer for spoiler lock carrier â€" left)
1K8 805 734 (retainer for spoiler lock carrier â€" right)
1K8 805 915 B (support element spoiler)
These parts are fitted to underneath of the car to give the bottom of the new bumper something to clip into.

OPTIONAL â€" LED DRLs
1K8 941 055 (LED daylights â€" left)
1K8 941 056 (LED daylights â€" right)

Method
First undo the screws at the top of the bit between the headlights. Then take off the fog light trims and discount these (if applicable) and the sidelight/indicator units. Now remove the front bumper by unding the series of screws inside the front wheel arch, along the bottom underneath and along the top. Once these are all out it simply unclips from one side. Pretty self explanatory. I removed the headlights as well but I don’t think you really need to. Now undo the rest of the screws to remove the centre grill between the headlights. There is a retaining section between them that you won’t need any more. You’ll know the part that I’m talking about when you try to fit the new R bits and they won’t go in as they foul against this section. I just removed it altogether and didn’t replace it with anything.

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Now just fit the bits that go between the headlights followed by the parts that go underneath for the new bumper to clip into. This really is quite easy to work out once you have all the bits in front of you so I’m not going to go into a step by step.

Once you’ve done that the R bumper will go on much the same way that the standard bumper came off.

Possible Indicator solutions
1. Do you have Xenon headlights? If so you may be able to swap your existing DRLs for indicators. I think that Fiscon do a kit for this but I don’t know an awful lot about it.
2. Modify the bumper inserts to fit in the standard indicator/sidelight housings
3. Modify a set of R Lights to act as indicators as well as DRLS â€" This is the method I chose. For more information see here: iulian-led-sidelights-indicators-thread-t4406-220.html & new-idea-for-led-light-conversion-t7530-40.html
 
#3 ·
Side Skirts
Recommend that you get an extra pair of hands for this.

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PARTS REQUIRED:
1K8 853 859 B/C (left side member trim)
1K8 853 860 B/C (right side member trim)
These are the actual side skirts. It seems that the part changed in July 2010 (B is 11/09 to 06/10 & C is the later version). I don’t know what the difference is between the parts nor do I know what version I have so this is a choice you will have to make. I’d suggest you simply go with the one that corresponds to the manufacturing date of your car.

1K8 853 543 (left retaining strip)
1K8 853 544 (right retaining strip)
I didn’t use these parts. It seems that this is clipped into the body work (but I’m not 100%) which means that you would need to drill holes for it to clip into. I didn’t want to do that so I decided to just bond the skirts on at the sides.

1K0 853 493 (adaptor) x 8
N911 080 01 (hexagon socket oval head panel bolt (combi))
Adaptors and bolts that are used to secure the skirts to the underneath of the body.

1K8 854 939 C (cover for door left)
1K8 854 940 C (cover for door right)
These are the bits that clip to the bottom of the doors in place of your bump strips.

Method
First remove your existing bump strips. Both the longer strip on the door and the smaller one on the rear quarter panel are made up of two pieces. The outer piece that you can see, clips into a rear retaining piece that is clipped into holes on the body work.

For the smaller part you want to use a trip removal tool (avoid using anything metal or you might scratch your paintwork) to prise it off from the back and then slowly pull/peel it off. This plastic is very soft and you can actually rip it so be slow and careful if you plan on keeping these.

At the rear end of the door (closest to the back of the car) at the bottom of the bump strip there is a wee hole that you can get a screw driver into to repeat the above process. This bump strip kind of clips into the bottom so you want to work your away along prising it from the bottom up and pulling along from the back. Again it’s soft plastic so take care not to rip it.

This will then leave you with the retaining strips that are clipped into the car. You’ll see the series of white plastic clips. Pay close attention to the door strip and you’ll notice that apart from one of them the rest allow you to pull the strip back to then pull it off. Before you do this you need to open the door and locate the two small screws that screw into either end of the retainer strip from the other side. One is in plain sight at the bottom of the door on the hinge side. The other is hidden from view by the door rubber. There’s a push clip that you pull out and then move the rubber out of the way and you’ll see the screw. Take both out.

Next you need to decide if you want to destroy one of the clips to get the retainer off or take the door apart to get to it through the door skin. I went for the first option and drilled the head of the one clip that I mentioned earlier. Next I pulled the strip back to free it from the other clips… and then I inadvertently annihilated the rest anyway.

The rear quarter retaining strip is the same idea.

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Now you should fit the new door strips. These go on with double sided tape and one clip. Then screw in from the other side (refit the screws you removed from the inside of the door).

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Now that those are in place you can fit the skirts. Before you do that, look back up at the parts list and pay attention to the 8x adaptors. Have a look under the car and just between the side of the body and the black plastic cover you’ll see a channel which has rectangular plugs fitted into the body. These made be slightly obscured by a coat of underseal. These need to come out and be replaced with the adaptors (4 on either side).

Next up you can fit the retaining strip I listed but didn’t use. I won’t cover this as I didn’t do it.

At the front wheel arch remove the bottom screw on the side that the skirt will fit onto. Now smother the damn thing in bond. (You can get it from ebay or any autoparts type place. Just ask for bodykit bonder). Now offer it up to the car and get it fitted up and in place to your liking. I held it for a bit whilst my Dad replaced the screw in the front wheel arch and then taped it in place for a while before going round the other side and doing the same thing.

I recommend waiting until the bond is set before you look to the underneath as if you pull the bottom of the skirts to screw them into the adaptors before then, you will risk pulling the top of the skirt off the side of the car. That bit is self explanatory; screw the bolts into the adaptors through the tabs on the bottom of the skirt.

When it’s all fully set, I recommend that you mask off the skirt and the body where the skirt meets the body of the car and then sealing it up with bond.

Thommohawk mentioned that he had a warranty issue where this wasn’t done. Water got in between the skirt and the body, froze and expanded and caused a bulge in the skirt. (thanks for the tip Thomo!).

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#4 ·
Derboy said:
(thanks for the tip Thomo!).
Nae probs.

Agree with Flux, good post :thumbup:
 
#5 ·
Rear Bumper
*** BEFORE YOU START ***
Pay attention to the parts list. If you aren’t going for an R exhaust then you’ll be buying a different part. See below


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PARTS REQUIRED:
1K8 807 417 K (bumper cover) OR 1K8 807 417 L (bumper cover WITH PARKING SENSORS)
1K8 807 568 (lower insert â€" RLINE â€" Fits standard exhaust) OR 1K8 807 568 A (lower insert â€" R â€" Fits R exhaust)
Choose the relevant parts above based on whether you plan to keep your existing exhaust or swap it out for the R version and whether your car has parking sensors or not.

1K8 801 261 (adaptor bumper - left)
1K8 801 262 (adaptor bumper - right)
These go at the bottom of the wheel arch and fill the gap between the arch liner and the bottom of the new bumper.

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1K8 810 971 C (wheel housing liner left)
1K8 854 972 C (wheel housing liner right)
These in conjunction with the above parts make sure that there is no gap in the bottom of the wheel arch into the inside of the bumper. Instead of buying these you can just cut the standard ones to fit but these are designed to fit the above inserts perfectly.

Method
First remove the existing bumper. To do this you need to remove your rear lights (I won’t go into this as its two screws and it tells you how to do it in the cars handbook). Next you need to undo the series of screws along the top of the bumper that were hidden by the lights that you just took out. Make sure you unclip and remove your number plate lights.

Now undo the series of screws underneath and at the rear of the wheel arches. Also remove the small plastic fins that stick out of the wheel arches.

Now you’re going to have to take the back wheels of to replace the wheel arch liners. You can do this one at time if you like as you don’t need to keep the wheels off to fit the new bumper.

NOTE â€" In the inside of the arch, behind the liner, there is a push clip that secures the bumper where it clips in at the side. Make sure you remove each of these (one per side â€" replace them once you clip the new bumper back in place.)

Before you go ahead and fit the bumper, clip into place along the bottom of it the lower trim to suit your exhaust. NOTE â€" If you are planning on fitting an R exhaust but are doing the bumper first, leave the trim off until you’ve done this. The standard exhaust fouls the R exhaust trim and will bend the plastic.

This is dead easy. Just clip the bumper back into place at one side and locate it in all the relevant clips along the back and at the opposite wheel arches and then put everything back together in reverse order.

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#7 ·
Hi Derboy ;) ,

First of all, thank you for this great How to :thumbup:

...I'm working on an full R-line conversion and have somes doubts regarding the adaptors for the skirts... :doh:
Can you please tell me, more details about the Adaptors fitting? ...How they are fixed with the skirts ?

Thank's a lot ;)
 
#8 ·
kodo28 said:
Hi Derboy ;) ,

First of all, thank you for this great How to :thumbup:

...I'm working on an full R-line conversion and have somes doubts regarding the adaptors for the skirts... :doh:
Can you please tell me, more details about the Adaptors fitting? ...How they are fixed with the skirts ?

Thank's a lot ;)
There are rubber grommets underneath the car that pop out. You then push the plastic adaptors into them and then fasten the lugs on the underneath of the skirt to the adaptors with a bolt.
 
#9 ·
Not sure if this applies to everyone, but the part numbers below are not the headlight washer covers, instead they are the guidance pieces for the headlight washer system and are included on the bumper...

1K8 807 941 B (headlight washer cover)
1K8 807 942 B (headlight washer cover)

I dont have the part numbers off hand for the actual covers but they are actually seperate and in ETKA on the headlight washer diagram. Not a train smash but now I have to place another back-order. Cant wait to have it installed :cool:
 
#11 ·
Derboy said:
Just checked this and you're right John. I have a spare left one and the part number is different but on ETKA on the bumper diagram it shows that part number against an image of the washer cover. Weird.. I can't find any other reference to the part. The one I have is 1K8 966 110 C.

Any chance you can fill in the blank for us?
Will do as soon as I get em - I think your list also omits the tow cover cover unless I missed it too :oops:
 
#14 ·
Great Guide. :thumbup:

A few questions:
1. Will my existing reflectors work on the R Rear Bumper?
2. Will the rear silencer of a golf 6 GTI work on the Scirocco, in order to get the twin outlet?

The part numbers for the diffuser seem to be different from previous posts? I'm assuming that these are correct as they are more recent :think:

Also, Am i correct in saying that I only need to purchase the following adapters:
1k8 801 261
1k8 801 262
And leave out the wheel-liner?

Thanks...
 
#15 ·
The existing reflectors on the rear bumper are a different shape so they won't fit. As for the exhaust, I don't know you'd need to do some measurements. My initial feeling is that the hanger brackets may be in different places but I can't honestly answer that question for definite.

You can cut the exsiting wheel liner to fit the adaptors if you wish. I chose to buy the proper wheel liners but Johnjm said that he cut his existing.
 
#19 ·
s1asher said:
Derboy,
Maybe you even could say for how much it is lower comparing stock? Especially im intersted in front bumper...

I want to install R full body, but in the same time want to lower mine scirocco. So im afraid about our local roads, cause they are not very good in Russia:)
Hi, my car is lowered by 35mm but I couldnt tell you how much lower the car is in comparison to the standard as I've never measured it before fitting the kit.
 
#20 ·
s1asher said:
Derboy,
Maybe you even could say for how much it is lower comparing stock? Especially im intersted in front bumper...

I want to install R full body, but in the same time want to lower mine scirocco. So im afraid about our local roads, cause they are not very good in Russia:)
Well you know what height yours sits at right now, and I know for example mine, with the accessories kit and lowering springs now sits at 100mm clearance front and sides, before lowering it was 135mm. I don't however know how high stock sits as I got the kit fitted before I picked up the car. I assume the R ride height is very similar to this..
 
#24 ·
williammm said:
Anyone here have experience fixing a R rear spoiler on the 1.4?
Is it very straight forward? And what are the parts i need to have?
I assume you're talking about a roof spoiler? If not you would have got the info from earlier in the thread.

On that assumption it is only one part and just it bonds on...
 
#25 ·
williammm said:
Anyone here have experience fixing a R rear spoiler on the 1.4?
Is it very straight forward? And what are the parts i need to have?
It's just some double sided tape, and a couple of screws. Remember that you need the black trim lists on each side of the rear window as well. The old ones will cause a gap between the R-spoiler and the trim lists.