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Covered Drinks Holder Fitting Guide

Guide content originally (c) OEMPL.US

Parts Required:

  • Centre Cup holder with slide cover - 1K0862531AUBN
  • Rubber Mat insert(you only get one of the 2 with cup holder) - 1K0863301B71N
  • optional - Metal bottle opener (plenty on ebay)

Tools Required:

  • T20 Torx screw driver/bit
  • Trim removal tool (plastic)
  • Small snap-on style ratchet

Fitting time is between 2 and 4 fours. This is not a particularly hard job but it is fairly time consuming and requires you take your centre console apart.

The content of this guide was originally written by OEMPL.US for USA based enthusiasts fit this in the Golf/Jetta but the steps are almost identical for the Scirocco. Read this entire guide before starting the retrofit.

Step One - Arm rest unit

1.1 Turn up the armrest cover and use the trim tool to remove the black rubber mat at the floor of the cooling unit.

1.2 Use the trim tool to pry off the panel containing the internal air vent.

1.3 The picture below shows the aircooler originally found in the Golf/Jetta but chances are you'll have the MDI unit or CD Multichanger in your car. As you look down you'll see small slots on either side, these are for radio keys. You can either get these from your deal or snap a small hacksaw blade in half and use the two halves instead.

Tip: The good news is, you will only be dealing with T20 screws. The bad news is, you'll have enough to melt down and suffice the metallurgy needs of the United States military complex three times over. I used a bunch of little envelopes and as I removed certain sections, I placed the screws (and tabs for the footwell fascias) inside and marked the envelope respectively. I stacked them in the order they were filled. When it came to reinstalling components, I went through the envelopes top to bottom.

1.4 Move onto the small rear storage compartment where you'll find two more torx screws (red circles).

1.5 Remove that rear storage compartment using the trim tool.

1.6 Remove the rear storage unit by pulling in the direction of the red arrows.

1.7 With the rear air-conditioning removed, you'll find two more torx screws on the lower sides - one on each side.

1.8 The rear unit can now be removed.

1.9 Remove the MDI & Aux in connectors (Scirocco - not pictured) harness by pushing in the locking lever as indicated by the red arrow. Once that is disconnected, pull on the parking brake as far up as it will go - it can be lifted surprisingly far! Proceed to fully remove the rear unit and put it aside.

Step Two - Gear Lever Surround

2.1 Use a credit card or similar tool to pry up the front end of the base of the gear shift selector. I found that starting near the middle and working to the right works out. I also found that the trim tool I have was not thin enough to get under there and my trusty pocket knife seemed too sharp for my comfort.

2.2 Before removing the shifter itself, lift up the base to reveal the wiring harness. Disconnect this harness first in case you get overzealous and yank that sucker so far out off that you rip the harness right out. That would be bad juju. Remove the harness by pushing in where the red arrow indicates and slowly and carefully wiggling the harness out.

Once removed, pull the shifter button out as far as possible - you might feel or hear an audible click but you will know that it is out (see next step for a good tip). Next simply pull the shifter itself straight out. Pull in the general parallel direction of the metal shaft underneath. For example, if you are in "N", pull straight up. It takes a little bit of force but it will come out and come out hard. No wiggling or shifting right and left - just pull straight out.

Tip: Once you've pulled out the shift button, wrap a rubber band around it to keep it from pushing all the way back in. You cannot re-install that knob with the button depressed. If you do, you may damage your shift mechanism.

Step Three - Ash Tray/Storage Compartment removal

3.1 With the gear selector removed, you'll find two torx screws holding down the front of the ashtray. Get at it, son!! You're now almost one-third of the way through!

3.2 Carefully lift up the ash tray and find two wiring harnesses. Remove the white connector in the same fashion you removed the gear selector harness and the power outlet harness in the same fashion you removed the power outlet harness from the rear cooling unit. Note that the wiring bundle for the white connector is attached to a guide (red arrow) which cannot be seen in the photo below. This is easily removed by pulling out to the right (not down).

Step Four - Removal of Footwell Fascias

Ok the easy part is over. The frustration involved in the following steps is likely where most people will break connectors, lose torx screws into the
abysmal holes scattered throughout the nooks and crannies, and generally go ballistic at the local Vons with semi automatic weapons. It's enough to piss off the Dalai Lama. Welcome to the suck.

4.1 Remove the tab cover and torx screw underneath each side of the footwell fascias. Don't worry, this part is deceivingly easy. It will get progressively and exponentially suckier - sorta like Dantes' inferno meets German engineering.

Once these are removed you should be able to pull out and down on the fascias and remove them entirely ... this part is tough. It helps to move the seats as far as as they will go. The fascia only extends just past the front of the seats when they are in the furthest rear position.

With the footwell fascias removed, we can proceed to remove the 10 screws securing the center console. There is 1 in the rear, 1 in the rear cupholder,
2 on each side in the footwells once hidden underneath the fascias, and 2 God forsaken ones deep in the far end on each of the "oh sh*t" bars.

4.2 Let's go ahead and start with the straight-forward rear screw so we can build up a false sense of confidence.

4.3 Use the trim tool to lift out the rear cupholder pad and remove the screw underneath that pad. 2 down, 8 to go. Ha! That's like getting to the basecamp of Everest and claiming you are 1/4 of the way to the summit.

4.4 Proceed to remove the two screws on either side of the footwells that were previously hidden by the footwell fascias.

4.5 Use the trim tool to remove the contoured sides of the oh ship bars. I found that starting from the bottom corners helped out. Once you have a side out, you can reach in there and pull with some force to remove it.

4.6 With the contoured trim removed, you can, evidently, get at the two final screws on both of the oh ship bars. If it gets too tight in there, use the ratchet with an adapter. Be very careful when removing these screws as they are apt to fall into the opening seen below never to be seen again until
the fourth horseman of the Apocalypse.

4.7 You will now be able to remove the entire center console from the rear (below) all the way to and including the oh ship bars. What manner of witchcraft is this, say you? Arcana it is not, young padawan. Adjust the seats as necessary - they do not have to be removed. Slightly bend the rear end to the extent necessary to pull it out and around the emergency brake. Do not worry, it's plastic and likely more malleable than you give it credit for - just don't get all medieval on its ass.

4.8 You can see one of the two screws that secures the cupholder above circled in red. With the center console removed, you can undo the two screws securing the cupholder one of which was circled in red above and the other circled in red below. Proceed to easily remove the cupholder by sliding in the direction of the arrow.

4.8 You can see one of the two screws that secures the cupholder above circled in red. With the center console removed, you can undo the two screws securing the cupholder one of which was circled in red above and the other circled in red below. Proceed to easily remove the cupholder by sliding in the direction of the arrow.

Note: You can try and replace the cupholder without removing the center console by stretching the hole where the cupholder is and easing it out. I do not recommend it. It was very difficult to insert the euro cupholder. While I was able to remove and replace the rear screw, the front screw was nearly impossible.

Step Five: Reinstallation

Simply follow the above instructions in reverse.


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