Boot opening
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I have that problem. tailgate will release but you cannot open it, It seems to happen more on the colder mornings.
Went back to the dealer but they couldn't replicate the problem. They wouldn't do any adjustment because they said they might cause a bigger problem :shock:
For the past week I had no problem with it because the weather is alot milder.
Went back to the dealer but they couldn't replicate the problem. They wouldn't do any adjustment because they said they might cause a bigger problem :shock:
For the past week I had no problem with it because the weather is alot milder.
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29 Posts
Hi,
I had this problem since delivery, thought it must have been a nack to it. I got to the point of taking it to the dealer. But got out my trussy WD40 and give the mechanism a quick blast. This was 4 weeks ago and no problems since, the boot now openbs witha positive clunk a lifts up slightly.
I had this problem since delivery, thought it must have been a nack to it. I got to the point of taking it to the dealer. But got out my trussy WD40 and give the mechanism a quick blast. This was 4 weeks ago and no problems since, the boot now openbs witha positive clunk a lifts up slightly.
had the same problem, dealer fixed it by lubricating and also adjusting the boot stoppers, they are the 2 little black things on either side of the boot lid on the inside near the bottom edge, they can be adjusted outwards by unscrewing them so the boot pops up further when clicked open. mine pops up nice and far now
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11 Posts
I have the same problem with my Scirocco GT TDI. It all started after a recall from vw to replace the strutts inside the tailgate. Since they messed around with it I've had a rattling tailgate which doesn't release properly every time I try to open it - despite being back to the dealer several times.
I'm now at the end of my teather with it.....!
Have tried the silicone spray and am hoping for the best!
I'm now at the end of my teather with it.....!
Have tried the silicone spray and am hoping for the best!
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11 Posts
The mechanics at the VW workshop adjusted the 2 black rubber buffers inside the tailgate and the rattle is now gone.
However, I'm still having problems with the boot releasing - sometimes it opens first time, sometimes I have to press the key fob again. The silicone spray has had no effect. To be honest I can't face going back to the dealer again (already been 9 times so far!) in case they set the rattle off again!
I'm wondering if the release catch has something to do with the black rubber buffers. I noticed that until they adjusted them they could be pushed in and out, now they are rigid. Has anyone else noticed if this is so on their cars?
However, I'm still having problems with the boot releasing - sometimes it opens first time, sometimes I have to press the key fob again. The silicone spray has had no effect. To be honest I can't face going back to the dealer again (already been 9 times so far!) in case they set the rattle off again!
I'm wondering if the release catch has something to do with the black rubber buffers. I noticed that until they adjusted them they could be pushed in and out, now they are rigid. Has anyone else noticed if this is so on their cars?
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208 Posts
Mine dont open properly on cold days either! Least its not just me! Cant see how the black bump stops have anything to do with this prob, they are there to stop rattles. The boot lock mechanism is what makes the boot pop when you release it, I assume it needs lubing or adjusting by altering an internal spring. If the bump stops were what made it pop open, you'd have a hell of a job shutting it!!
Fortunately I have no rattles at the moment after putting velcro felt side pads into the hinge sockets as above. Took some "jig measurements" today on mine seeing as this seems a frequent problem as a future reference. It may help some to know the factory standard (new car). Finding reference points for the measures wasn't good but here are the best I found.
1. On the centre top of the rear boot wall push the little flap fully down into the cavity and hold. Measure the gap from the base of the "U" to the locks metal holding pin. It should be about 5mm. I've assumed here that the plastic trim is consistant on the Sciroccos, not much else to reference for the plates position (which can move around in its location before tightening).
Also pick two identical point on the rear car bodywork, left and right sides, and check the metal holding pin is in a central position.
If not this, then there are two screw head bolt holding the holding pin plate in place. (You will need an impact driver to undo these from experience and they need to re-tightened strongly to withstand the hatch slams etc.).
2. Open the boot hatch and close it so that it just rests on its stops. The best reference point I could find with a tape measure was the base of the shiney black plastic trim. The bottom is fairly straight, so align your tape measure with the bottom edge (red line) and measure the gap across to the main bodywork. This should be about 13mm.
3. Now shut the hatch. Take the same measurement distance as in 2. The should be about 5mm.
If the measurement differ,
then some adjustment of the stops to acheive 13mm open is via the hatch's stops.
To acheive 5mm closed it will be necessary to adjust the position of the holding pin plate. The dimension measured in 1. will tell you if this is way out and also act as a datum starting point to get your adjustment right.
C.
1. On the centre top of the rear boot wall push the little flap fully down into the cavity and hold. Measure the gap from the base of the "U" to the locks metal holding pin. It should be about 5mm. I've assumed here that the plastic trim is consistant on the Sciroccos, not much else to reference for the plates position (which can move around in its location before tightening).
Also pick two identical point on the rear car bodywork, left and right sides, and check the metal holding pin is in a central position.
If not this, then there are two screw head bolt holding the holding pin plate in place. (You will need an impact driver to undo these from experience and they need to re-tightened strongly to withstand the hatch slams etc.).
2. Open the boot hatch and close it so that it just rests on its stops. The best reference point I could find with a tape measure was the base of the shiney black plastic trim. The bottom is fairly straight, so align your tape measure with the bottom edge (red line) and measure the gap across to the main bodywork. This should be about 13mm.
3. Now shut the hatch. Take the same measurement distance as in 2. The should be about 5mm.
If the measurement differ,
then some adjustment of the stops to acheive 13mm open is via the hatch's stops.
To acheive 5mm closed it will be necessary to adjust the position of the holding pin plate. The dimension measured in 1. will tell you if this is way out and also act as a datum starting point to get your adjustment right.
C.
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11 Posts
Hi,
Thanks for that. The mechanics at my dealership seem to have fixed the rattle, but they can't seem to get the boot release sorted. They had it for 3 days, made some adjustments, and all seemed well until last week when I tried to open the boot on a cold and frosty night. It takes 2 presses of the button to release it, first press opens it but it seems to be catching and I have to press again until it fully opens. On one occasion I got it partly released and it just wouldn't open fully so I had to leave it until later in the day when I finally got it to open.
I've lost count of how many times it has been back to the workshop now. Just booked it in again but not holding my breath. I'm not sure what's causing this, a faulty fob, a dodgy lock, or just the cold weather.
Thanks for that. The mechanics at my dealership seem to have fixed the rattle, but they can't seem to get the boot release sorted. They had it for 3 days, made some adjustments, and all seemed well until last week when I tried to open the boot on a cold and frosty night. It takes 2 presses of the button to release it, first press opens it but it seems to be catching and I have to press again until it fully opens. On one occasion I got it partly released and it just wouldn't open fully so I had to leave it until later in the day when I finally got it to open.
I've lost count of how many times it has been back to the workshop now. Just booked it in again but not holding my breath. I'm not sure what's causing this, a faulty fob, a dodgy lock, or just the cold weather.
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11 Posts
No, it happens with both the key fob and the button inside the drivers door. It doesn't happen every time, its an intermittent problem.
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