Ok this ones for Rocket but for anyone else who's interested this is how I do a proper detail on my car. It's up to you what products you want to use as everyone will have different opinions on what they like best.
Step 1 - Wash
A lot of people use two buckets and grit guards etc. I don't really bother with that. But here's my method:
Hose down the whole car to help loosen any dirt. Then wash the wheels first using alloy wheel cleaner and a toilet brush. Then rinse. I do the wheels first as this stops dirt from the wheels getting sprayed up onto your freshly washed paint work.
Wash each panel at a time using a washmitt. Lambswool or a synthetic. This will stop you from rubbing dislodged dirt across the paint work. Instead the dirt will be trapped in the deep fibres of the washmitt . Rinse with a soft stream of water rather than a hard jet. This stops you from ramming dirt particles into the paint.
Step 2 - Drying
Don't use a chamois. It doesn't give you any protection and you run the risk of rubbing any dirt still on the car into the paint. Use something like a Meguiars watermagnet instead. It will dry the car quicker and protect the paint better. Use a spray and wipe detailing spray to spray the car (a panel at a time) when it's still wet. This will disperse the water quicker whilst you dry it.
Step 3 - Claying
Clay is like a bit of plasticene. You rub it on the paint and it drags ground in contaminents out of the paint work. Great for getting brake dust and tar off. Use the same spray and wipe product as a lubricant and clay each panel at a time. Using a circular motion (with just light pressure). If the clay starts to stick to the paintwork add more lubricant. When the clay gets overloaded with particles fold it over on itself. DONT JUST FLIP IT OVER AND USE THE OTHER SIDE! if you do you will end up with a bit of clay you can no longer use as both sides are loaded with dirt. Once you've finished give the car a quick wash again and dry it off.
Step 4 - Polish
If you have a light coloured car such as white then you very rarely need to polish the car as light colours do not produce the same depth of shine as darker ones do. When polishing do a panel at a time. Apply sparingly and then buff off. You shouldn't be left with a a big haze. If you do you are using too much and wasting product. The polish is rubbed into the paint to rub off the oxidised particles leaving the fresh stuff underneath. It's almost like sanding the crap off the top of your paint work at a molecular level. Imagine T-Cut but no where near as strong.
Step 5 - Glaze
I've never used glaze before but have finally found out what it's all about. It doesn't offer any paint protection but helps to create a shiny wetlook. Again it probably wont provide a huge difference on a white car or similar light colours. This should be applied the same way as the polish above and before the wax.
Step 6 - Wax
You can apply wax to the whole car in one go. I find that using a foam applicator pad rather than a cloth gives the best result and uses much less wax. This section shouldn't be labour intensive. If it is, your using too much wax. Wax is best built up in thin layers than trying to apply a thick layer in one go. Use it sparingly. You should be left with a very light haze that's easy to buff off. For best results apply a layer of wax on the whole car and then go do something else for half an hour before buffing it off. You can do this a couple of times to build up the protection.
That's it. Any other hints or tips or if you do anything differently feel free to post. :thumbup:
Step 1 - Wash
A lot of people use two buckets and grit guards etc. I don't really bother with that. But here's my method:
Hose down the whole car to help loosen any dirt. Then wash the wheels first using alloy wheel cleaner and a toilet brush. Then rinse. I do the wheels first as this stops dirt from the wheels getting sprayed up onto your freshly washed paint work.
Wash each panel at a time using a washmitt. Lambswool or a synthetic. This will stop you from rubbing dislodged dirt across the paint work. Instead the dirt will be trapped in the deep fibres of the washmitt . Rinse with a soft stream of water rather than a hard jet. This stops you from ramming dirt particles into the paint.
Step 2 - Drying
Don't use a chamois. It doesn't give you any protection and you run the risk of rubbing any dirt still on the car into the paint. Use something like a Meguiars watermagnet instead. It will dry the car quicker and protect the paint better. Use a spray and wipe detailing spray to spray the car (a panel at a time) when it's still wet. This will disperse the water quicker whilst you dry it.
Step 3 - Claying
Clay is like a bit of plasticene. You rub it on the paint and it drags ground in contaminents out of the paint work. Great for getting brake dust and tar off. Use the same spray and wipe product as a lubricant and clay each panel at a time. Using a circular motion (with just light pressure). If the clay starts to stick to the paintwork add more lubricant. When the clay gets overloaded with particles fold it over on itself. DONT JUST FLIP IT OVER AND USE THE OTHER SIDE! if you do you will end up with a bit of clay you can no longer use as both sides are loaded with dirt. Once you've finished give the car a quick wash again and dry it off.
Step 4 - Polish
If you have a light coloured car such as white then you very rarely need to polish the car as light colours do not produce the same depth of shine as darker ones do. When polishing do a panel at a time. Apply sparingly and then buff off. You shouldn't be left with a a big haze. If you do you are using too much and wasting product. The polish is rubbed into the paint to rub off the oxidised particles leaving the fresh stuff underneath. It's almost like sanding the crap off the top of your paint work at a molecular level. Imagine T-Cut but no where near as strong.
Step 5 - Glaze
I've never used glaze before but have finally found out what it's all about. It doesn't offer any paint protection but helps to create a shiny wetlook. Again it probably wont provide a huge difference on a white car or similar light colours. This should be applied the same way as the polish above and before the wax.
Step 6 - Wax
You can apply wax to the whole car in one go. I find that using a foam applicator pad rather than a cloth gives the best result and uses much less wax. This section shouldn't be labour intensive. If it is, your using too much wax. Wax is best built up in thin layers than trying to apply a thick layer in one go. Use it sparingly. You should be left with a very light haze that's easy to buff off. For best results apply a layer of wax on the whole car and then go do something else for half an hour before buffing it off. You can do this a couple of times to build up the protection.
That's it. Any other hints or tips or if you do anything differently feel free to post. :thumbup:
